A home sauna is a purchase you’ll live with for decades. Before you compare specific models, get clear on five things: what kind of heat you enjoy, where the sauna will go, how many people will use it, what your electrical panel can handle, and your total budget. This guide walks through each one.
1. Decide what kind of sauna you want
| Type | Air temperature | Humidity | Best for |
|---|---|---|---|
| Traditional (Finnish) | 160–195 °F (70–90 °C) | low, rises briefly when you throw water on the stones | People who want the classic, intense sauna with steam (löyly) |
| Infrared | ~120–140 °F (50–60 °C) | low, dry air | Small spaces, heat-sensitive users, quick sessions after work |
| Hybrid | either mode | depends on mode | Households that can’t agree – you pay for both systems |
| Steam room | 110–120 °F (43–49 °C) | close to 100 % | Mostly spas; at home it needs a sealed, waterproof room and a steam generator |
We break down the two most common options in detail in Infrared vs. Traditional Sauna.
2. Indoor or outdoor?
Indoors – basement, garage, spare room or a large bathroom. You’ll need:
- an air intake low near the heater and an exhaust higher up on the opposite side,
- a floor that tolerates moisture (tile or sealed concrete, not carpet or laminate),
- ideally a shower close by.
Outdoors – usually a barrel sauna or a cabin sauna. Plan for:
- a level, solid base (compacted gravel, concrete pad or pavers),
- a power line run by an electrician, or a wood-burning stove instead,
- regular wood care (exterior finish, keeping water off the staves),
- a call to your local building department and HOA. Rules on accessory structures, setbacks and wood stoves vary a lot between towns.
3. Size: how many people?
Bench length is what matters. Plan on about 24 inches of bench per seated person, and at least 6 feet if you want to lie down. A ceiling height of around 7 feet is ideal: taller rooms take longer to heat and the hot air pools above your head.
A rule that rarely fails: buy a little bigger than you think you need, but not twice as big “just in case.” Every extra cubic foot means a bigger heater and higher power bills.
4. Heater type and output
For a traditional sauna the heater size depends on room volume. As a rough guide, count about 1 kW per 40–50 cubic feet of well-insulated room. Glass walls, stone and uninsulated walls soak up heat, so you need a stronger heater than the raw volume suggests.
Always follow the heater manufacturer’s sizing chart. It lists the minimum and maximum room volume for each model.
Electric heaters are the most convenient. Most residential models (roughly 4.5–9 kW) need a dedicated 240-volt circuit, often 30–50 amps depending on the heater. Have a licensed electrician do the hookup, pull a permit where required, and choose a heater that is UL or ETL listed.
Wood-burning stoves are popular for outdoor saunas. They don’t need electricity and many people love the softer, more “alive” heat. They do need a proper chimney, required clearances to combustibles and more time to fire up.
Stone capacity matters more than most product pages admit: more stones mean steadier heat and gentler, longer-lasting steam when you pour water.
Infrared saunas use panels instead of a heater. Smaller 1–2 person units often run on a standard 120-volt outlet (a dedicated 15–20 amp circuit is strongly recommended); larger cabins may need a 20-amp or 240-volt circuit. Check the spec sheet before you order.
5. Wood and materials
- Western red cedar – the most popular choice in the US. Aromatic, rot-resistant and stable, but pricier and the smell bothers some people.
- Hemlock – light-colored, mild-smelling and more affordable; common in infrared saunas.
- Nordic white spruce – the Scandinavian standard. Great value for interior paneling.
- Thermo-aspen / thermowood – heat-treated, darker and more moisture-resistant.
- Basswood – nearly odorless and often marketed as a hypoallergenic option.
For benches, avoid knotty or resinous wood. In high heat, knots can get very hot and resin can bleed.
6. What it really costs
Prices vary with size, brand and whether you assemble it yourself. As a rough guide:
- 1–2 person infrared sauna: about $1,500–$5,000; premium brands go well beyond that.
- Indoor traditional sauna (kit or prebuilt cabin): about $4,000–$12,000.
- Outdoor barrel or cabin sauna: about $5,000–$15,000+.
On top of the sticker price, budget for electrical work, freight delivery and assembly, a foundation for outdoor models, and accessories (bucket and ladle, thermometer/hygrometer, sand timer, headrest).
You can browse budget infrared models on Amazon. Specialist brands like Sun Home Saunas (infrared and outdoor) and Redwood Outdoors (barrel and cabin saunas) sell direct.
Pre-purchase checklist
- I know which kind of heat I want (traditional / infrared / hybrid).
- I’ve measured the space, including ceiling height, and know where ventilation will go.
- I know how many people will normally use it.
- I’ve checked my electrical panel: is there room for a 240 V circuit, or does it need to be a 120 V model?
- I know my total budget including delivery, electrician and accessories.
- I’ve checked the warranty, parts availability and US-based customer support.
- For outdoor saunas: I’ve checked local permit and HOA rules.
FAQ
How much does it cost to run a home sauna? It depends on heater output, preheat time and your electricity rate. Infrared saunas draw less power and heat up faster, so they’re usually cheaper to run per session than traditional saunas. We show the math in Infrared vs. Traditional Sauna.
Can I install a sauna myself? Most kits are designed for DIY assembly by two people. The electrical hookup for a hardwired heater should always be done by a licensed electrician.
How often should I use a sauna? Most people enjoy one to four sessions a week. If you have heart problems, blood pressure issues or are pregnant, talk to your doctor first.